Pre-Fall 2011: Reed Krakoff

Reed Krakoff has quickly become a favorite of mine. His debut collection (current season) was the only one in New York to offer a taste of what Parisian Houses (like Celine and Givenchy) ultimately did for the Fall 2010 season. Krakoff's latest collection sparks no less buzz as it offers smart workwear options like suede skirt-suits and exotic wrap skirts.

Photo Source, Tfs.

Q&A: The Grungy Gentleman

Lipstein with the 2010 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Recipient, Billy Reid.

Following the frustration in finding the perfect menswear blog, I came across Grungy Gentleman, Jace Lipstein's answer to the modern man. Since Lipstein seems to be the master of Q&A (interviewing neckwear phenomena, Alexander Olch and menswear maverick, Michael Bastian), I found it necessary to pick his brain.

The Runway Room: When did you start 'Grungy Gentleman'?

Grungy Gentleman: June 16th, 2010

RR: Now, what exactly is a Grungy Gentleman?

GG: Grungy Gentleman erases the stereotype that all gentlemen 
have to be frumpy and grandpa-like. Grungy Gentleman injects
 a bit of youth and flair into your step; while still remaining sartorial.

RR: Do you think this describes your personal style as a whole?

GG: Grungy Gentleman is a play on words of how I dress.

RR: I see that you've now added a Kiel James Patrick collaboration to the already impressive collaborative offerings on the site, which has been your favorite?

GG: My first video with SPREADhouse was so killer. They are super-talented. As for the Grungy Gentleman bracelet, that was pretty special.

RR: Print or Viral?

GG: Healthy mix of both. There is something liberating about sitting down on a couch with a GQ and getting your monthly dose.

RR: Where do you see the magazine/print business going in the future?

GG: I see print being offered in different ways. For example, GQ is available via the iPad now. Amazing stuff!

Jace starred in the No Excess Winter 2010 campaign and has wound up in the pages of Menswear mecca, Details.

RR: Do you see internet journalism heading anywhere special?

GG: I see the blogosphere expanding. Blogs have the flexibility of being super-specific and niche-oriented; hitting their target audiences needs and desires.

RR: What makes a menswear designer great?

GG: The ability to produce classic and timeless garments.

RR: What are some new menswear designers that I should know about?

GG: Riviera Club, Idol Radec, Kiehl James Patrick.

RR: Favorite Publication?

GG: GQ is the bible.

RR: Favorite Menswear Designer?

GG: Band of Outsiders, Rag & Bone, Simon Spurr, Michael Bastian, Gant Rugger, Elizabeth & James, Patrik Ervell, Billy Reid, Steven Alan, Riviera Club

RR: Favorite Blog?

GG: www.grungygentleman.com DUH!

Grungy Gentleman currently hosts a list of the "Dopest Kicks Out", bringing my parents to a thrill as I've added a hefty amount of them to my Christmas list.

Fall 2010: General Idea

General Idea is designed by Korean designer, Bumsuk Choi & the Fall 2010 season was their 3rd to show in New York. Jenny snapped a picture of the leopard boots while at Williamson PR for Cleveland Luxury in back in May. General Idea has quickly become a favorite of mine with it's edgy basics & rad silhouettes.

Backstage Photos, Sonny Vandevelde

Spring 2011: Browne & Ford Foray Into Womenswear

Thom Browne:

As a guy, I can't say that I am thrilled with this expansion; there are so few designers that strictly focus on Menswear. Even though Tom Ford infamously designed womenswear for Yves Saint Laurent and Gucci, he's been out of the womenswear market for sometime, now; I will say that it is time for him to reenter this market. I cannot say the same for Thom Browne, as most of his looks from his womenswear presentation seem identical to Browne's collaboration with Brooks Brothers. However, I can see the pieces being extremely versatile and wearable (in a fun/adventurous kind of way).

Tom Ford:

Photos, Huffington Post & Tommy Ton for Jak & Jil.

Spring 2011: A Punk in Paris

The New York, London & Milan shows declared a preppy romanticism and such Paris shows as Balmain literally screamed, "I'll do it my way!" (the soundtrack professed).

Christophe Decarnin's way wasn't necessarily a way for which I would've liked to travel. Decarnin's latest collection seemed revisited & was cluttered with everything/anything tiny including, cropped-biker pants that appeared as if a direct copy of Isabel Marant's Fall 2010 success. Balmain seems to repeat itself each season.

Google defines Punk as, "rebelling against the established order" and Decarnin established said punk fashions during the Fall 2008 season.

This confusion has sparked a scatterbrained vibe throughout the industry, "I think it's much more about fashion culture than fashion [which is why it seems all over the place].", admitted the New York Times' columnist, Cathy Horyn to Harper's Bazaar.

For the Spring 2011 season, Balenciaga took over Balmain's former role as rebellious, offering wearable pieces that explore new silhouettes. Balenciaga's show opened with a slew of unknown models that Ghesquiere's crew cast off the street (as apposed to the industry/establishment's casting of the same top models for each show). Nicolas Ghesquiere explained prior to the show, "I didn't want clones".

I would much rather take the road less traveled, for which Ghesquiere has paved extremely well! Despite the toughness exuded by the houndstooth leather and clunky brogues, the simple Tuxedo cuts and sheer panelling of the shirts add a dose of softness, making for a fresh take on punk style.

Nicolas Ghesquiere told Style.com's Nicole Phelps, "It's about individuality", which certainly backs the theory that every fashion house has a knack for something different at the moment.

photos, tfs.

Spring 2011: Girl by Band of Outsiders

For Spring 2011, Scott Sternberg introduced the newest edition to the Band of Outsiders clan, Girl. Sternberg set up shop with Band of Outsiders [Man], the original menswear range; following BoO was Boy, a fresh take on tomboy fashion from the perspective of a menswear designer. Girl explores unchartered territory for Sternberg which was (if I say so) successfully chartered. Note the striped umbrellas, crisp whites accompanied by sheer shirtings and gold brogues - a fantastically fun and sophisticated ensemble, whilst maintaing the typical Band of Outsiders vibe: the twisted prep.

Photos, Refinery 29 & Sonny Vandevelde.

Fall 2010: Lanvin x H&M

I'm extremely excited for this collaboration, and not because I like Lanvin (because I do), but in relation to the collaboration's appealing menswear (personally, I find it to be the best menswear collaboration to-date). I plan on posting my full collaboration-rundown later on this week, once all 40 looks are released (only 25 were released today). So, enjoy several of the campaign images and the comical trailer.

The Lanvin x H&M campaign was shot by David Sims and features Hannelore Knuts, Jane Schmitt, Tati Collitar and Natasha Poly. The collaboration (naturally) looks cheap for Lanvin which I reckon is a good thing considering 90% of the "collab" is straight out of previous Lanvin collections (i.e. majority of shoes via Spring 2009); I think it'd be rather unfortunate for those ladies who shawled out boatloads of cash for RTW to appear as if they're wearing H&M.

[UPDATE: Check-out the H&M website for all Lanvin/H&M locations; none happen to be in my state, nor any neighboring states. Perhaps, you'll luck out?]

To see all of the looks released as of yet, visit New York Magazine.

Campaign Photos, tfs & Campaign Video, Nitrolicious.

Spring 2011: The Fine Floridians

Marc Jacobs:

I first noticed the "Floridian" trend (if you will) at Marc Jacobs where palm trees adorned gilded pantsuits and dresses; breast appliqués appeared to be mini beach umbrellas and the candy stripes evoke a Sonia Rykiel dose of fun (suiting a top 10 Spring Break destination). Big, floppy hats accompanied humidity ridden frizz in bright, radiant colors. The hats also reflect the raffia trend for accessories, which Vogue generously curated.

Stella McCartney:

If an entire look cluttered with oranges does not scream Florida, then I have no idea as to what may. I especially enjoyed Stella McCartney's Spring collection (as I frequently do), so expect a review/rant in full, soon.

Prabal Gurung:

Prabal Gurung boasted a collection full of electric color blocking which gratifies the bright, art deco architecture of South Beach. The clean geometric prints opened Gurung's latest collection and certainly packed punch; perhaps foreshadowing things to come for the young designer?

photos, Sonny Vandevelde, Tfs

Spring 2011: Fashion Week in Any Which Way

A fun video encompassing the Spring 2011 shows by Gerard Estadella of icanteachyouhowtodoit.

Video, icanteachyouhowtodoit.

Spring 2011: The Golden Age of Fashion

Most fashion critics and journalists have decided that the latest collections are undoubtedly 70s; however, I see them as being a reflection of the jazz age. In collections from Louis Vuitton and Chanel, the mood generated an age of opulence.

Karl Lagerfeld built a massive garden inside the Grand Palais, emulating a garden straight out of 'The Great Gatsby'. F. Scott Fitzgerald's masterpiece (in my book, no pun-intended) epitomizes the opulence and grandiose happenings of the Jazz Era .

During said era, women began to embrace cosmetics, as they were formally reserved for prostitutes; Chanel's look fully embraced this "feminist movement" with a smokey eye and knack for darkness. Models followed suit at Louis Vuitton.

Marc Jacobs described his latest collection for Vuitton as affluent, a "Paris Is Burning, glamour for the kids". The silhouettes were a fusion full of melancholy as the ankle trimming lengths from the 20s and 30s combined with the Studio 54, party girl from the 70s. The decades fused, yet again at Chanel where 70s platform sandals and ankle skimming frocks trimmed in feathers met to satisfy a perfect juxtaposition.

One could also argue that Chanel was straight out of the club kid era of the 90s and we really could go on for days about the purpose of these collections, but I think it's safe to say that it's all about fun and options. However, the options seem to be from every decade imaginable and simply all over the place.

I suppose it's all a question of taste, which coincidentally was another key player in Jacobs' collection. Marc confessed to Style.com, "Taste is so subjective and I don't believe that there is such thing as good taste and bad taste." He later added, "Taste is an awful word and no one should ever use it."

Photos, Sonny Vandevelde

Fall 2010: Gant Rugger Campaign

I've been obsessed with Gant Rugger's Fall offerings ever since, Jenny and I attended our local Saks for Fashion's Night Out. There was a fantastic reindeer sweater and also a plaid jacket that was of the lightest weight. This video exudes a nostalgic quality that often gets lost amongst the "industry's" attempt to stay cool.

Spring 2011: Proenza Schouler Notes Straight From My Blackberry

My immediate notes/thoughts (minus the typos) following the Proenza Schouler livestream:

- ladylike

- messy hair/contrast

- white

- muted colors

- great soundtrack

- open back

- ombre

- exotic cocoon coats

- statement necklaces

- ombre adds edge to tweed suit pairings

- drop waist

- elongated silhouette

- sheer

- bra exposed

- wide leg

- neon bra pokes through neutrals

- black sheer w/ neon underlay

- whispy

- flows extremely well

- surfer vibe

- olsen-y

- long slip dress

- pattern mixing

- tacky tourist peeks into womenswear

VIBE: LADY LIKE W/ EDGY-SURFER TWIST

Images, Tommy Ton for Jak & Jil.

Spring 2011: Marc by Marc Jacobs Notes Straight From My Blackberry

My immediate notes (minus the typos) following the Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring 2011 livestream.

- color blocking (seen @ Prabal Gurung)

- candy colored

- fun soundtrack

- sonia rykiel

- stripes

- wearable=sellable

- hats

- bright colors (seen at Carolina Herrera & Marc Jacobs)

- 70s

- laid back (cool) menswear

- Happy

- Big Hair (seen at Marc Jacobs & Pamela Love)

VIBE: "PARTY PEOPLE IN THE PLACE, GET READY FOR THIS!"

Image, W Magazine.

Spring 2011: Beauty: Painted Locks

The latest Alexander Wang collection is a whitewash of wonderfulness. [nymag.com]

At Alexander Wang, hair was whitewashed to fit the mood of crisp whites and to also, add depth to the many sheer pieces (make note of the nose rings, which added a feeling of toughness and balance to the collection-not to mention, another level of cool).

At Altuzarra, hair was stiffly, slicked back (perhaps, poking fun at the models who succumb to beyond-greasy-hair during the hubbub of fashion week?) and varied from blue to orange, focusing on the tribal influence of the collection.

Painted lock-clad models walk the finale at Joseph Altuzarra's Spring 2011 collection. [stylelist.com]

Spring 2011: Marc Jacobs Notes Straight From My BlackBerry

My immediate notes (minus the typos, straight from my BlackBerry) on Marc Jacobs Spring 2011 (whilst the livestream was "playing"):

• 70s patterns
• Chunky Shoes
• Big Hats (like @ Carolina Herrera)
• Drop Waist
• Orange
• 30s Silhouettes
• Color Blocking (like @ Prabal Gurung)
• Voluminous
• Jumpsuits
• Bianca Jagger
• Possible Asian influence?
• Big Hair (Also seen @ Pamela Love)
• "Circular Breast outliners" (like @ Altuzarra)
• Flowers everywhere
• Drama

Backstage Photo, Marc Jacobs Twitter.

For Jenny Heyside: We Are The World

We Are The World by Steven Meisel

Vogue September 2010

I think this suits my good ole' friend, Jenny, perfectly (but I could be wrong?).

Spring 2010: Backstage at Giles Deacon

Giles Deacon Spring 2010 + Erase / Rewind by The Cardigans.

Photo Source, Love Runway.

Menswear Spring 2011: Paris Part 2

Kris Van Assche:

Lanvin:

Louis Vuitton:

Paul Smith:

Thom Browne:

I (once, again) apologize for the severe delay in any posts; I've been terrible this Summer! And I return to school in less than two weeks, which is absolutely unbearable. Blargh!

All Runway Photos, GQ.

Menswear Spring 2011: Paris Part 1

Alexis Mabille:

Dries Van Noten:

Givenchy:

Jean Paul Gaultier:

John Galliano:

All runway Photos, GQ.